Patients with Skin of Color: Proper Skin Care Analysis Is Critical

Almost half of the people on earth and more than a third of the US population are people of color, those whose skin is darker than the average western European. These people will have a heritage that stems from many places including the middle east, Africa, Asia and southern Europe. Their skin has unique needs, and can be easily damaged so it requires proper skin care analysis and care.

Several common conditions of patients of color are all treatable by the aesthetician.  These include a new “color blind” laser which allows use of laser hair removal. Since darker skin attracts more of the light from lasers with short wavelength, using them on darker skin can cause blistering and scarring. Color blind lasers are safe and are also helpful for skin rejuvenation and scar therapy.

Those people who have darker colored skin commonly suffer from dark spots and discolorations. For these clients creams are available that can be used to lighten patches of discolored skin. Some of the ingredients include hydroquinone and kojic acid, effective for short term use.

On the Fitzpatrick Skin Typing Scale people of color will generally fall into categories IV, V or VI, a very wide range, so the individual client should be examined carefully before making an analysis.

Microdermabrasion units that use an aluminum oxide or salt crystal for skin abrasion can cause a skin irritation in these clients. Also Type IV through VI skin can be very intolerant of chemical peels. They can result in redness, skin irritation and blotchiness. Laser treatments can cause post treatment hyperpigmentation. However light alphahydroxy chemical peels and microdermabrasion that does not use aluminum oxide or salt crystals can be quite effective. This type of skin tolerates UV light much better than light skin does, and the problems faced by these clients much be treated in accordance  with the skin type. A clinician should also utilize either the Rubin or Glogau skin analysis system when working with a patient of color. Pay particular attention to keratosis, pigmentation, texture and wrinkling. Note abnormalities and remember that Rubin only relates to extrinsic aging factors. It is also wise to check with a patient concerning family background to determine what aging characteristics might be intrinsic in nature.

All clients are individuals with individualized aging characteristics and certainly individualized skin. It is important to thoroughly examine the skin of each client to determine the proper analysis and treatment plan to follow.